Timed Make up Assessment

Wednesday 26th November- Make-up Artist: Me, Designer: Beth

As our brief was contemporary Elizabethan make up we felt with Beths deep skin tone we can really manipulate the situation and create something really different and contemporary however hold elements of the Elizabethan era. When studying the historical part of the era and how they would traditionally create there make up by coping Queen Elizabeth it was know to have pale white skin, which sometimes wouldn't be natural, either bleached or painted on. We decided when trying this on Beth we didn't want her face to be painted white as we wanted it to look natural on the skin and highlight her beautiful natural skin tone. During the time of experimenting with the designs we included gold into her natural foundation to create a glow to the skin which really highlighted her face. The reds and gold were colour represented from the era which Queen Elizabeth wore a lot of. The application of the make up was very contemporary as the contouring on the cheeks is very modern but the colour used is traditional Elizabethan. I blocked out her brows which were on her design because in the era they either would have very fair brows that you couldn't see them or completely gone. 

On the day me and Beth arrived to the assessment on time and was given 5-10 minutes to set up the work station. Beth came prepared with her foundation and a clean natural face ready for me to apply the make up. During creating the design everything went smoothly and I was taking my time to block the eyebrows out and create a flawless finish to the skin, when it got closer the end of the assessment I had to speed up a little bit as time was running short, however I managed to complete my whole design in 1 hour and 10 minutes. 

Before the assessment me and Beth starting working together early so we could get used to each others face, shape and applying the make up on each other. Once our final design was sorted we practised it a few time and sometimes each time just tweaking things to improve the design after we received feedback. We enjoyed getting feedback because in every way it helped improve our designs and work on our make up skills. I really enjoyed working to another students brief as it takes you out your comfort zone of just creating what you think you could do yourself. I really enjoyed working with Beth as together we had great communication skills and developed our ideas while in our practise sessions. Overall I feel this design went very well and everything on the day went to plan. After the make up we got a chance to take photos of our final design however the lighting and background was very dark as other people had white painted face. Therefore my photos didn't come out very good and I wasn't pleased with them as I felt it didn't portray my make up properly. I got advised if I didn't like the photos to go back and re shoot them so me and Beth waited for everyone to finish there photos and we look more. The second time round of taking photos I was so much happier with them as they came out clear, bright and in focus. 

Make up design Beth drew for me on the day of the assessment

Wednesday 3rd December- Designer: Me, Make-up Artist: Beth

This was the final design Beth created on me for the assessment. Prior to this me and Beth worked together to finalise my design. I started off with a completely different look and make up chart however when applied on me I felt it didn't work properly and didn't fit the brief as well. I ended up creating a few make up charts and we ended up taking elements from each design to create this final design. After many practise session and feedback I finalised my design to this. I felt exploring and developing the design really helped to finalise my idea, I think it really helps working with someone as they can give you feedback and see things in a different way and view. 

When swapping designs with Beth she straight away started on my design and we stayed behind a few days to perfect it before the assessment. On the day of the assessment I arrived early and starting cleansing my face and placed a towel on our station ready for when Beth came in, I also brought my design and instructions and taped them to the edge of the mirror ready.  When she arrived she set up the make up allocated for the design and started the make up when the assessor said okay. The make up went smoothly and Beth had plenty of time to create everything perfect and had time to spare to but my hair up in a quite beehive to complete the look, she completed the make up in around 1 hour and 10 minutes. I feel Beth worked really well to my design and I enjoyed instructing her how I wanted it to look and practising it and the same the other way round.

Before the assessment Beth received feedback about improving the brows which I felt on the day she did. I also received feedback about my design and which one would work the best. I feel my design contains elements of the Elizabethan era however in a contemporary way which is what the brief is based on. I think we did work to the brief well and both created a design of our own interpretations of a New Elizabethan make up. It was really good exploring the era and the types of make up they used and how it could be created into a modern look.   

Front look

Side look

Make up Face chart I created for Beth to look at on the day of the assessment 

My Partners Final Practise at My Make up design Before the Assessment

 Beth wanted to practise my design one more time before the assessment so we stayed behind and practised the make up to perfect it before the assessment.

Beth started with setting up all the products needed and I gave her my face chart to look at while creating the design. I started with cleansing my face before Beth applied the make up just to make sure the surface is nice and clean. The she applied primer to my face and then a mix of foundation and white bade foundation to lighten my skin. She then applied white powder to set the make up so it doesn't look greasy, around the eyes she used a white eye shadow to lighten the eyes and take away any creases. 

Next was applying the white to the lashes and the brows, Beth used a disposable wand and white paint to cover my lashes in white. She then used the same wand and brushed through my brows to make them white also. She then powdered the brows with white and then applied another layer of white just to make sure they are completely white. 

Next was the lips, Beth used a brush and applied the red colour to my lips and lightly put it on the top and bottom lip, she then asked me to smudge my lips together to create the subtle lips as we didn't want them to look neat and bold as I my lip design is more traditional Elizabethan.

Next was applying the blush, Beth started with applying pink as the base and then red on top to slowly bring the colour out from the base make up. This actually worked very well and the contouring was very neat and even on both side and blended out nicely. I think the cheek and lips compliment each other really well in this design and stands out beautiful against the pale skin and fair lashes and brows. 

Final Look

Final Look

One of the main concentrations of this design  was practising the eyebrows this is because in the last feedback we received from our lecturer Sharon she told us that the eyebrows needed to be neater and not so sloppy as she thought Beth could do much better with the eyebrow. This time Beth practised the eyebrows again and they look much better, the colour was brushed through neatly and looked tidy. Each of the eyelashes were separate and completely white therefore the brow and lashes worked well together and looked amazing. 

3 brush Challenge

My work station step up for the 3 brush challenge 

The 2 brushes I chose to use. Angled brush, Foundation brush and flat eye shadow brush

My face chart I worked from

I started off with concealing the face with the Charles Fox camouflage palette. I then used her own foundation which was by Mary Kay, I applied this all over the face and down the neck. I then used the angled brush to buff the face and foundation into the skin so there was no line or uneven areas. I then used a loose powder to powder the face using the exact same brush again. 

I then used the eye shadow brush and used a mix of grey and pink on the eyelids, I found this quite hard as I felt like I needed a bigger brush on the lids however I needed a smaller brush for the lips later on so I had to choose a brush in the middle. I then started on the cheeks creating a soft contour, I started with a brown blush powder on the cheeks to shape and define the cheeks I then used a pink blush over the top for the colour which matched the eyelids.

I then applied black mascara to the lashes and slightly brushed through the brows as well to highlight the brow hairs and give a slight definition in the brows. Next was the lips, I used a pink colour with the same brush I used for the eyelids, I found this quite hard as the brush was a little big so I couldn't create a perfect line on the lips, I tried to apply it as neat as possible however. I think the pink on the lips really brought out the colour on the eyes and cheeks and the pinks became a very chromatic look at the end. 

Working with 3 brushes okay to begin with as I used the foundation brush and the angled brush for different things however these all worked perfectly fine using the same brush. A harder brush to use for multiple things was the eyes and lips as I had to decide was sort of brush I wanted to use and could collaborate. I chose a middle sized brush this way I could do both however just have to work hard to keep it neat and precise. 

Final look

Final look 

Creating my Make up Design for Peer

This is my final design for my Elizabethan Make up, I have created the look on myself with steps of how to create it. This will be shown and given to my partner ready for the assessment so she can see all the steps of how to create the design. I will list products that will be needed to create the design and the final images to help guide my partner to create my design. To the left I have created a face chart with what the make up should look like, on the day of the assessment I will bring in the face chart ready for my partner to create the look on me. 









I have taken a photograph of all of the products my partner will need to create the design. The range of products here are from Charles Fox and Illamasqua and are all in our allocated kits. 


Firstly I started with the base of my makeup which was a mix of the colour Alabaster and Olive and a mix of Illamasqua white base foundation. I applied this all over the face with a foundation brush and then buffed the face. Next I powdered the face with Illamasqua loose powder to set the foundation and give a powdered look. In this design the base of the make up has a slight gold tint over the face to warm the skin up, I used the gold from the Charles Fox supra palette and used the buffing brush to lightly buff the gold into the face. 


Next was contouring the face, I used a angled brush and used the colour red from the Charles Fox blusher palette. I contoured this below the cheek bones, up the side of the face and slightly on the edge of the forehead. Next was for he white lashes and brows, I started with the lashes with applying white supra paint to a disposable wand and applying just like mascara to the top and bottom lashes. I then used the same mascara wand to comb through the brows and then powdered them with the loose powder. 


Finally was the lips, I wanted the colour to be dabbed on lightly with red so it was subtle to the overall look. I applied the red which was the colour LC007 from the mini lip rouge palette by Charles Fox. I then used my buffing brush which had gold on and lightly went over the lips with the gold. 





Products-
Foundation palette, colours Alabaster and olive
White base foundation
Gold Supra colour
Whit Supra
White loose powder
LC007 colour, Mini lip rouge palette
Red Blush from the 5 blush palette




Brushes-
Foundation
Powder brush 
Blending/buff brush
Disposable mascara wand
Angled contouring brush 

Close up to the eye and brows

Final look

Final Look

Overall I think the steps to my design is quite simple as long as my partner follows them through everything should go to plan. Beth has practised my design twice and each time she gets better and works at a faster pace. I'm confident at Beth completing this design on the assessment day exactly how I have designed it. 

My Partner Creating my Make up Design

I my recent make up studio session it was my partners turn to practise my design that I've created.Since the last time I worked on my design, we blended to ideas into one and created a completely new design. I changed the colour theme and also the lips for it to fit into the category of Elizabethan better as we need to contain historical and contemporary elements. We explored different ideas and experimented with different techniques on the face to create the final look.

Firstly my partner, Beth started with creating a very pale base which was very popular in the 16th century especially the extremely powered look. We wanted to slightly warm the skin up so it was pale but had a glow to it, so we used a gold paint over the face to warm the complexion up. Then she set the make up with a white translusent powder to give that powdered Elizabethan look. 

Next was the blush, we used the traditional red on the cheek however the application was modern, we contoured the cheeks under the apple and up the sides of the face to define the edge of the face. Next was the brows and lips, in the Elizabethan era is was known to either have very fair eyebrows and lashes or none at all, in this design we've painted the brows and lashes white to lighten them in a contemporary way. She used a disposable mascara wand and white paint to create the lashes and a small brush, white paint and a brow comb to create the brows. For the lip application we changed the design from the previous design I had a before it was very contemporary, shape line and in the centre however this time we wanted to go a little more traditional Elizabethan with the lips and dap a little red over the lips to warm the up a little bit. This application was light and no to heavy on the lips as we wanted to keep it simple.   

Here was the final look of my design
Make up designer- Me
Make up Artist- Beth

We then showed our lecturer our make up design and asked her if there was anything we could improve on or change. She wasn't pleased with the eyebrows as she said up close they looked a little messy, on the day we will be photography the make up from all angles and Beth forgot to go over the ears and further down the neck area so it all blends. She said we could buff the make up in more just to make sure every things blended and worked into the face instead of sat on top. We took all this advise on board and went back over to over make up stations to improve the look. 

This was the final look after we adjusted it. Beth worked the make up over my ears and all the way down my neck so it completely blended with the face. She neatened up the eyebrows by brushing through the brows more, neatening up the edges and powdering on top.

 She also used a blending brush and worked the make up into the face more. 

Once the adjustments were done I was very happy and pleased with the make up. Beth did a good job a creating my design as this is the first time she's fully created the make up without any adjustments. We have another session before the timed assessment for Beth to work on this design and get it completely right the first time. Overall I'm very happy and pleased with what Beth achieved today and its what I wanted my make up to look like, there is only minor things Beth can work on however we do have another session to practise this again before the real assessment in this time Beth could easy improve the minor things like the blending and the brows in this space of time. 

My Final Practise at my partners Design

This was my final Practise of my partners make up design before the actual assessment. I started with setting up my work station with all the products I needed to complete the make up design. I started with applying the Illmasaqua primer to her face with a foundation brush and then placed a bar of natural soap in some warm water ready to block the eyebrows out. I used a spatula to scrap away some of the soap and placed it on the back of my hand. I then used my finger to wipe the soap across her brows and used a brow comb to brush her eyebrow hairs upwards. I then created another layer of soap to make sure the whole brow is flat and firm and then I allowed this to dry.

 I then started with the base of the make up which was applying Charles fox derma colour camouflage concealer colour D13 to the whole face to create a flawless under coat. When the eyebrows were dry I applied colour D1 and then D32, this was to block out the colour of the brows ready for the top coat of make up to make sure they look completely gone. D32 is like a dark red skin tone so over the top of this colour I reapplied D13 which is the correct concealer colour for my partners skin. 

Once the base was completed I then applied the foundation which was by Mary Kay and this was mixed with Charles fox supra colour gold. This was to skin a glowing gold tint to the foundation and give a flawless coverage. With my foundation brush I applied the gold tinted foundation over the whole face, ears and neck. This gave the final coat on the brows which made them completely disappear.

Next was the powdering and contouring of the face, I started with powdering the face with the Illamasqua white loose powder this was to set the makeup and give a matte look. I then started working on the eyes, I used a mix of yellow and orange from the Charles fox Viva Brilliant colour palette and applied this round the corners of the eyes and over the lids. For the cheek I used a red blush from the Charles Fox blusher palette and applied this under the cheeks, the sides of the temple and slightly up the side the forehead and blended at the top of the forehead. I used an angled bush brush to contour the face this was to give accurate precision. 

Next was the eyelashes, on the design the eye lashes were white, I didn't have a white mascara so I used a disposable wand and used the Charles fox supra colour in white for the lashes. I did this by placing some of the paint on the back of my hand and rubbing the wand in the paint. When applying the mascara I started at the roots and wiggled up through the lashes to give a full coverage. 

With the lips we slightly changed the lips during our last make up experiment as we went from a yellow/gold to a red in the middle and at the end we decided we preferred the red on the outer lip and gold in the middle. I used the mini lip rouge palette for the red this was colour LC008 and in the middle was gold supra paint by Charles Fox and used a small lip brush to apply the product.

This was the design complete, we then went to the studio next door where we took some photos and looked at the make up through the camera to see what it looked like and what could be improved or enhanced for the camera. 

Full Make up design

Close up to the eyes and brows

Close up to the lip application

photo of the make up taken in the studio for testing

Another shot

The feedback I received when looking at the make up through the lense was I needed to apply the colour a little harsher for the camera to pick it up. Another was that because the skin has a gold tint it reflects off the light and create a shine on the main points which was the top of the forehead and the nose. My lecturer told me either I could tone down on the gold in theses area or make sure its powdered more. The red and yellow contouring didn't show as much as what it looked like to the eye so again my lecturer, Lottie told me I need to apply more so the camera can pick the colour up. 

I went back to my station and tried to improve my look so it was camera ready. I applied more red blush on the cheeks and temples, I applied more yellow over the lids to create more definition for the camera. Another thing I needed to concentrate on was the shine on the nose and forehead, what I did to improve it was apply regular foundation on the forehead to cover the gold a little more so its not as glowing and then I powdered over the forehead and more on the nose.

This was the final outcome of my improved look

hand palette of colours used

Overall I'm very pleased with the outcome of this design, I think it went really well and didn't have any problems with the application. I was very happy with how the blocked eyebrows came out as on camera you couldnt see them at all which I was very pleased about. I think I completed the design to the standards my partner wanted and was very happy with the final look. On the day I just need to make sure I'm prepared and have all the products I need to complete the final look. I'm feeling confident in applying the make up for the assessment however just a little nervous for the day.