My Assessment Partner experimenting with my Design and Creation of Final Design

 In my recent make up studio lecture I had to bring in either one or more of my make up design that I drew. This was for my partner to study my design and try out the make up design on me. This lecture was allocated to swap design with my partner, for my partner to attempt my design and experiment with the looks. We started off with looking at two of my face charts that I drew as these were my favourites, one was based around red and one around purple. 

My partner, Beth, started with applying the base of the make up which was very pale foundation. She used a mix of white base foundation and the lightest foundation from the Charles fox 8 foundation palette. Once the foundation was applying she set the make up with a white loose powder by Illamasqua, this just got away any shine or grease to the skin. Beth then contoured my cheeks with Charles fox, viva brilliant palette lavender colour. The contoured defined the cheeks and was brought slightly up the sides of the temples by the end of the brows. We then experimented with shading over the eyelid and down the nose, this wasn't in my design plan however we thought it looked nice as it added more colour to the face and definition. 


After looking in the mirror for a white me and Beth was studying the face and thought the purple on the pale skin made the face look very neutral so we asked for our lecturer, Sue, of her opinion. Sue came over and said the colour didn't look very Elizabethan and the purple made the face look very cool. We then suggested to Sue if we tried out the same design however used red, as red was definitely more Elizabethan on the face and I had already based a make up design around the colour red. We then wiped the contouring off and started again. As the skin was very pale we wanted to warm it up ever so slightly and Sue gave us the idea of applying the gold supra paint over the skin lightly so it gave a gold tint to the face and warmed the skin up. We tried out this idea and found the gold did the job and warmed the skin up and looked lovely on the face. 


We then carried on with the original plan of the make up design however just instead used red. We contoured the cheeks with red a built it up around the side of the face which looked lovely over the pale gold skin. We then filled in the eyebrows with a small make up brush using the red supra paint and just followed the natural line of the brows. We used the same red supra paint from the eyebrows to use on the lips as well which we painted just in the middle section just like my design. Finally was the eyelashes which were to be white, we didn't have a white mascara so we used a wand and spread the white supra paint over the wand and applied to the lashes just like mascara.


 Once we completed the design we gave a hard look at the make up and thought if it suited the category of contemporary Elizabethan make up. Me and Beth then discussed what we could do to improve the design to look a little more Elizabethan. We then realised that we think the eyebrows were a little to bright for the design and made it a bit too contemporary and we had to step back a little to become more Elizabethan. We asked for Sue opinion again and she said she liked the eyebrows and they did look really good however she understood what we meant when there were quite striking for the design. We then decided to try it with the eyebrow white like in the original red make up design I drew. Again we took of the brows and Beth used the White supra paint to paint over my eyebrows in white. Finally we felt much happier with the design and felt the contouring of the cheeks and the lips looked much better against the pale shimmery gold face complimented with white eyelashes and eyebrows. We didn't want to over power the look too much with colours and go to over the top with modern ideas. 

 Sue came back over the have a final look at our completed design and she questioned the lips if they were too bright for the design and if they would look better smudged. We then used a brush and smudged just the bottom lip across and left the top as it was and told us to have a think about that idea. We decided we really liked it when the lips were a little more subtle however we wasn't sure on just keeping the top lip the same. Me and Beth then decided to smudge the top lip as well so the lips were soft and just dabbed on, this was definitely more historical Elizabeth as there lips wouldn't be defined in the 16th century just smudged on. I was very happy with this final look after experimenting with the design and realising what look good and suited the project best. I'm much happier that I changed the colour and gave myself an option with my make up designs through the colours and technique. I think in my final assessment I will be using the final outcome of this lesson look as I think it fulfils the brief after development and experimentation on my design.

             

Historical Make up Reference

Historical Make up Reference

http://madamenoire.com/329699
/women-shave-their-eyebrows-just-draw/

http://imgkid.com/queen-elizabeth-1-as-a-baby.shtml

http://makeupthroughtheages.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/
as-aspiring-makeup-artist-one-thing-has.html

I have chosen three portraits of Queen Elizabeth 1 that reference my make up and show historical influences to my designs. In the first portrait of Elizabeth it's a close up to her face this shows her skin and make up very well. Each portrait of Queen Elizabeth 1 looks slightly different as not all of them are face to face paintings some were painters own personal image of what they thought Elizabeth looked like. As Elizabeth got older she became conscious of what she looked like and didn't want painting done of her. This lead to her controlling what portraits of her were seen and what ones weren't. In the close up one of her face you can see her face is very pale and defined slightly at the temples. Her eye sockets look slightly sunken and defined by the brow bone however there is no eyebrow there at all. The eyebrow is replaced with what looks like skin underneath or just her hair is very fair. In my recent make up design I drew I have either painted the eyebrows white so they look very fair so you cant see them or I've completely blocked them out. In the portrait Elizabeth seems to have no eye lashes either, as in the 16th century it was very popular to have no eyelashes either because they've fallen out because of the chemicals used, there very fair or you've just plucked them away. In my design I've completely painted the eye lashes white, against a white face there unnoticeable or very vague. Her lips and cheeks are slightly red, the cheeks are applied just on the apple of the cheeks, contouring the bone was not around or neither popular then. The lips are stained red and wouldn't of been done with a brush so the edges wouldn't be sharp or neat. In the middle portrait it looks more like an oil painting and in this picture Elizabeths face look extremely white as in the first portrait it looks more of a natural pale base. The second image almost looks as its bleached out white or its been enhanced to look that white. The same with the lips, it just looks dabbed on however this time the red looks slightly brighter. In the third image again her face is very white and the red blush goes along the cheek slightly wider than the first portrait.The definition of where her eyebrow would of been is there but there no actual eyebrow there again. Her lips are a rosy red and if vaguely put on, the lips haven't been defined or outlined so they look very thin small. White/cream and red is also a very popular colour to wear by the Queen, in most of her portraits she tend to always be wearing one of these colours. I think in design I definitely have the aspects and influences or Elizabethan era such as the base colour, eyebrows and lashes. I feel maybe in a further design I could incorporate red as it was a very popular colour in the era and could experiment with that colour. 

Elizabeth 1: Golden Age -Character Comparison to my Contemporary Elizabethan Designs

In our recent seminar we watched the film Elizabeth 1: Golden age, as a few weeks back we watched Elizabeth 1 1998 film as well. During watching the film we ere told to look as the characters in the film either Queen Elizabeth herself or any other character and compare there looks throughout the film to my design and reference there look/hair/make up. This is to see how there historical 16th century looks, look similar to mine or even a contemporary version of it.

Queen Elizabeth 1:
A mature Queen Elizabeth endures multiple crises late in her reign including court intrigues, an assassination plot, the Spanish Armada, and romantic disappointments. In this 2007 film, Queen Elizabeth 1 has a variety of looks for each occasion and day. She has quite similar make up throughout most of the film however her dresses, colour and style changes throughout. 

At the beginning of the film Queen Elizabeth wears a very bright and patterned long sleeved orange, red dress. This is completed with a simple pale face, fair eyebrows and slightly tinted red lips. She had a large cream ruff around her neck, her hair is in a curly up do with feathers attached to the top. I think the base of the make up and the fair eyebrows has similarities to my make up design. I still haven't got complete final design as I'm still in the development and experimental stage with the designs I like. When applying on a face chart and then applying on a person the design can look slightly different. Therefore me and my partner are still exploring ideas and experimenting with what looks good. I feel if I could incorporate something from this image from the film Elizabeth 1: Golden Age I could maybe use aspects of the colour of her dress into my design. As colour is an important factor in the design as it represents the theme, class and the era. 

One of the following dresses in the 2008 film was a long sleeve fitted, yellow/gold dress. In this movie Elizabeth seems to wear a variety of bright colours, I think this is because If you were wealthy (or the Queen) you could afford better materials that could of been imported and in a variety of rich colours. In my assessments partners design her colours are based around gold/yellow and red, which are colour used a lot for Elizabeth in the film. These colours are classed as rich colours. Again on her head is another accessory, accessories and jewels on the Queen was a very common use.

Later on in the film she wears a very covered up green dress, this dress is not as bright and over powering as the other colours its more of a subtle green. The green really neutralises her face in this dress and make it look very pale and bland. Her her is kept simple, short, curly and in an up do. Elizabeth throughout the film tends to wear quite a lot of wigs which were all different shapes and styles. Throughout the film Elizabeth wears her hair up however in one of the last scenes during the battle she has her hair down and very long.

Nearer to the end of the film Queen Elizabeth wears a very bright purple dress, the again is long sleeved and goes all the way up to the top of her neck. This colour has been used on one of my contemporary Elizabethan design. The base of the make up was very pale and the eyebrows white as Elizabeths were sometimes gone and if they were they were very pale they looked almost white. The contouring and lips were very contemporary and was a shape of this type of purple. I used purple as its classed a a royal colour and was used in the film. This colour scheme and make up have small influences and comparisons to my recent experimentation design which my partner created on me. I think watching this film has made me think of the colours that were used in the era on the Queen and also the natural pale base of the skin and looking at the simplicity of the make up, colours of the clothes and the curly, up dos.

https://cinemattire.wordpress.com/2014/01/16/rainbow-week-green/
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0414055/
http://www.popmatters.com/article/cate-blanchett-returns-as-queen-elizabeth-i-in-the-golden-age/
http://www.chud.com/12071/interview-cate-blanchett-elizabeth-the-golden-age/
http://lifeissweet16.wordpress.com/2010/06/02/robin-hood-and-alison-weir-the-odd-couple/

Further Make up Ideas for My New Elizabethan- Assessment Partner creates on me

I have started looking into a variety of make up designs that I could possibly use for my contemporary new Elizabethan make up. Iv'e draw up 3 new make up designs that are based around the Elizabethan theme however have contemporary techniques and ideas to them. I started looking into different colours that I could use for my make up design and what look represent the Elizabethan era. On the day of our assessment we will bring in our final design, notes of how to create the look and pictures, this will help my partner create the look I designed for them on me. Below I have draw up 3 new Ideas that could possibly lead towards my final design.

CONTEMPORARY TO HISTORICAL ELIZABETHAN DESIGNS

This first design I have created is very contemporary however has Elizabethan influences to it. I've made the skin very pale which is a natural and sometimes forced colour in the Elizabethan era as it was popular too have pale white skin. I've based this design round the colour of deep purple, this is because I feel the colour purple represents royalty . For the cheeks I've contoured them with purple and slightly going up the sides of the face, this technique is very contemporary and is used in modern day. The eye lashes I've put them completely white and blocked out the eyebrows with soap and applied white over the top. It was very traditional in the Elizabethan era to have very fair eyebrows or either none at all. The lips I kept them really small in the middle with a harsh line to define the lips, this was done with purple supra paint. 

As you can see in the design I've kept the base of the make up traditionally very pale again. I used a red powder to contour the cheeks and up the side of the face and down onto the forehead. This creates a heart shape on the face with the contrast of white to red. For the eyelashes they are painted white again to keep them very light and fair, the eyebrows this time is just combed through with the white paint to make the eyebrows look like there completely gone. The lips again are the same style and shape however is painted with a deep red.

This design is very similar to the first design I've just changed it ever so slightly. The base is the same, very pale and flawless, the contours the same, just highlighting the bone structure and giving definition and the lips are painted in the middle with the purple supra paint. The slight difference I've done in this design is that I've applied purple eye liner to the water line to highlight the eyes and instead of the eyebrows being traditionally white I've gone very contemporary with this design  and painted the eyebrows purple with the supra paint, this would be applied with a small brush and just colour in the eyebrows were the original brow is. In each design I want the skin flawless and powdered so its not greasy at all. This is very traditional Elizabethan as in the 16th century they would tend to powder there face alot so it was very powdery, so much that you could see it. 

Assessment Practise from my Partners Designed Face Chart

In our recent make up lesson it was my turn to study the design that my assessment partner has created for me on the day of the assessment. We can both create our designs and we were aloud to swap over beforehand so we could practise on each other. In today's seminar Beth brought along her design that she drew with make up of what she wanted me to create on her for the final assessment. She had a full chart and a little bit of information at the side highlighting the use of colours and where abouts.

As Beths design had blocked out eyebrows in this design I started with trying to make them disappear. I placed a scent free, sensitive bar of soap in a bowl full of warm water. I then used a spatula to scrap off some of the soap and then I placed it onto the eyebrow, I then used my finger to flatten the eyebrow hairs down and blend it away to the skin. As Beth has a dark complexion and dark eye brows I needed to use a colour that would get rid of the colour of her eyebrows and then place her natural colour on top. I used the derma colour camouflage palette colour D1 which is a pale yellow and D32 which is like a reddish skin tone. I applied this onto the soap once it was dry and blended the concealer in. I then needed to apply concealer to the rest of her face so I applied colour D13 to the rest of the face and then used my brush to dab her real colour on top. I didnt blend it in as then it would just start mixing all the colours round and I wanted it to sit on top to block the natural colour. I then slightly powdered the brows to let them set just before I applied the foundation.

For the foundation we kept the same idea from the experimental design which was mix her foundation with gold. I used Beth's own Mary Kay foundation with a mix of Charles Fox Supra colour on the back of the hand and applied to the whole of the face. I then used a dab of white powder over the foundation just to get away the greasy look to the skin. I then started with the contouring of the face with red from the Charles Fox blusher palette and Yellow from the Viva brilliant colour Medley palette. I the applied the red to under the cheek bone and up the sides of the temples to highlight the cheek bones and the yellow from the corner of the eye to the centre of the eye lid and up to the eyebrow. The eyelashes again were white like the previous design we created, this was done by the white supra paint and a mascara wand. I started from the roots of the lashes and worked my way up to get thickness and length. For the lips the design showed a yellow/gold colour blended into red in the middle. I started with a mix of the yellow supra colour and the gold and applied it to the whole of the lips, I then applied the red supra colour to the middle of the lips.

We studied the design slightly and asked our lecturer ,Kat, if we could get feedback on the design for Beths design behalf and also on the application for mine. Kat asked us how we felt about the lips and we thought it was a little to bright for the design. Kat agreed and told us she thought they were a little to contemporary and modern for the make up we were creating and told us to experiment with the colours on the lips as she thought we could create something better. When she gave us the feedback she said how she loved the yellow and red contouring against the gold skin tone and how I could probably apply the colour a little heavier as It works really well with the skin tone. I then applied more red Blush around the cheek bones and a little more yellow over the eyelids. I decided to take of the lip stick and try out a different colour like Kat suggested to see if it worked better with the make up design. I then started applying a red lipstick to the lips this was the colour LC008 from the Charles Fox Rouge mini palette, I think this colour looked nice and I really like it and it suited the theme of Elizabethans better however I thought it looked a little plain for the make up. We then thought about doing the reverse of the previous colour and applying gold to the middle of the lips instead, this came out really good and I was very pleased with the outcome after we played around with the colour. I think the colours are very complimenting to each other and look beautiful against the golden skin tone. I'm really happy with this make up and feel confident to re create it. Beth was very happy with the outcome of her design and thought her design changed for the better.

Another piece of feedback I was given was when blocking out the eyebrows to make sure I comb all the eyebrows hairs upwards this will make them thinner and easier the block out as they will be scraped up and flat the the surface of the face. Kat said this would improve my eyebrows and make them blend in with the skin more and not stand out on the face. 

Overall I'm very happy with this design and I think after the experimentation the design finally pulled together and looks very contemporary Elizabethan. 

My Assessment Partner Working and Experimenting with my Design

I gave this face chart on the right to my assessment partner as on the day of our
assessment I will give her my make up design and she will have to create that allocated look on me. This designed was based around the colour purple, I chose the colour purple because I think that colour represents royalty and the colour appeared in the film Elizabeth 1: Golden Age near to the end of the film Queen Elizabeth 1 wore a deep purple dress. I wanted the make up to look simple however strong and it to be my modern interpretation of the Elizabethan era through make up, techniques and colour.

My partner Beth started off with creating the design I gave her, this was the first time she's worked on my face, so this was for her to get familiar to applying make up on me ready for the assessment. She started off with applying soap and warm water to the eyebrows this was to set them flat and harder so later on she could apply white to the brows, it was basically just a bar of soap a small piece from it and brushed through the eyebrows and pressed down flat ready to set. Next she applied the foundation which was a mix of the ultra colour 8 palette foundation, a mix of FS38 and Alabaster. And then a mix of Illamasqua white skin base foundation, this just made the face slightly paler without dramatically making it white. Over the top we powdered it with Illamasqua loose powder just to set the make up. We then started with the contouring of the cheeks, this was done with Charles Fox Lavender colour. This was applied under the cheek bones slightly up the sides of the temples and blended around the nose and onto the eyelids just to give the face some colour and definition. On the make up face chart I didn't include the nose contour we just experimented with that idea as Beth thought it might look good and I agreed as I liked the shading around the nose. For the eye lashes she used a mascara wand with the white Charles Fox supra colour, this was to make the eye lashes completely white. We then back to the eyebrows which were now set and hard and brushed over the top in them with the white supra colour to make the brows completely white. For the lips we used a small, thin angled brush the paint just the middle of the lips this was done with the purple colour from the Charles Fox supra colour palette which gave a shiny wet look to it.

I really like this design and I think it gave out really well in comparison to my design that I drew. I think it could be worked on slightly and maybe play around with the colours to see what else works. I think this design contains contemporary Elizabethan features and also historical such as the light eye lashes, pale skin and blocked out/ fair eyebrows, the contouring and use of colour is very modern and the lips is a modern interpretation of royal 16th century lips. I think Beth did a very good job at creating my design on me and I think the outcome looked good. I like how the deep eyes make the white skin and brows stand out more and the lips take attention. I think the lips are quite striking and I think it could use some work to them.

My Contemporary Make up Practise for final Assessment

My recent make up practise was me working on my partners design on her face and experimenting with contemporary make up designs. Beth had a few colours in mind of what she wanted to create such as the gold and red themed colour throughout the make up. I feel me and Beth work really well as a team and we always try to give each other feedback on our design of what we think could work better and what we could try out.This helps us work better together in a team and improve our design process. Beth had a brief make up design which was based on a plain face, red contouring, plain lashes, maybe blocked out eyebrows and gold around the eyes and gold and red lips. When creating the design I started off with blocking the eyebrows with soap and warm water, this was purely soap spread across the eyebrow, brushed upwards and the soap pressed down firmly. Next was concealing the face, this was to give a light conceal over the face before I applied the foundation. 

The concealer I used was by Charles Fox, Derma colour camouflage make up colour number D13. For the Foundation Beth brought in a foundation by Mary Kay as we don't have her deep skin tone in our kits, when look at the gold and the foundation Beth suddenly got the ideas to add to her design something slightly different. It was to mix a dash of gold paint from the Charles Fox supra colour palette to the foundation to give it a slight golden glow and warmth in the skin tone. This actually turnt out great and I loved the effect it gave on this skin. Then I moved back onto the brows, and me and my partner Beth got the idea of brushing through the eyebrows with a white mascara want, like the eyebrows were very light like they would of been in the Elizabethan era, however it would give a different effect against Beth skin tone. I applied the white supra colour to he back of my hand, brushed the mascara wand through it and brushed through the brows, this was quite hard to do as the brows had set flat were the soap had stuck it down. Next I did the exact same to the eyelashes, I used the mascara wand and brush through the lashes thoroughly.

For the cheeks I applied a bright red blush from the Charles fox 5 blusher palette. This was contoured on the cheek bones and slightly up the sides of the temples. This looked lovely and complemented the golden skin with the slight red applied on top. I didn't want to over power it too much with the blusher as I wanted to keep it warm and subtle. Next was the lips, this was a mix of the gold and red. I started with lining the lips with red from the Charles Fox mini rouge palette, and then applying the gold paint from the supra palette into the middle of the lips and then blended it out slightly so it was mixed.


I think I interpreted Beths design very well, in the lesson it was purely to gather inspiration for our designs and the make up we was going to create. This really helped Beth also along the way to gather more ideas as I was creating the make up on her as we was experimenting and adding different techniques along the way. I'm really happy with the out come of this contemporary Elizabethan make up as I think it works really well and all the colours work well together and compliment each other.

Once I completed the design our lecturer Sue took us into the other room and studied the make up and told me what I could improve on and what Beth could possibly add the her design. The feedback Sue gave me was that I could definitely work on the lips and maybe try a different way to apply the colour. Also as the red looks so good against Beths complexion she told me to add more red to the cheeks and contour more. I then applied more to the cheekbones and brought more up the sides of the temples. Sue liked it slightly heavier and contoured more but just not too heavy where the brows are. Apart from the my feedback was very positive and told use just to experiment with the design a bit more and see how we could make it better. Sue's feedback was very accurate and I think the cheeks looks better with more red as it really compliments the skin tone. The lips definitely could be worked on more and maybe a change around of colour. Beth said for her next development in design for the make up she will extend the design and experiment with with the contouring, colours and blending on the skin.
 

Final make up, however with the additional blush added to the cheeks to define them more.

Finished make up design on my assessment partner Beth.

Front on look.